Johnnie Hillwalker

For photos of the walking tour, click here.
Walk in Kyoto, Talk in English, read the pamphlet next to the computer at the ryokan. No reservations, credit cards or URL, just show up at the meeting point at Kyoto Station Monday, Wednesday or Friday at 10:00. So I did. On this brisk April morning, 76 year old Hajime Hirooka, aka Johnnie Hillwalker, wore a red and orange fisherman's hat and black wool coat. He greeted each of the 38 walkers, writing down our nationalities and accommodations in a well-worn black book. Johnnie has toured Kyoto three days a week for the last sixteen years and will continue doing so as long as his doctors allow. He's a man with a mission: to show visitors the "real Japan," off the worn tourist tracks. His articulate lectures and humble manner endears him to those who walk with him.

Working prayer beads between his fingers, Johnnie taught us about Japanese Buddhism at Higashi Honganji. Most Japanese don't go to temples to pray, but the priests go to homes monthly on death anniversaries to say a ten minute prayer at the family altar. For example if a family member dies on December 13, the priest visits on the 13th of each month. Outside, loud speakers amplifying angry voices interrupted his lecture. Black vans with blackened windows passes slowly on the street. Johnnie explained that these are Japanese Nazis angry about the Chinese Premier's visit to Kyoto today. "They like to scare people." Loud speakers on top of cars are common in Japan, especially during this election season.

Along a peaceful, narrow street, we stopped at Ayako-Tenmangu, where Johnnie demystified the Shinto religion. It has no Bible and no one knows where it started. Purity is the only tenet, so the Japanese take off shoes indoors, have a high standard of cleanliness and believe everything has a spirit (trees, rocks, water, people). Demonstrating the purification process, Johnnie washed his hands with water from the dragon fountain and rinsed his mouth. "The spirits are very busy and moving around so we need to get their attention before we pray," he said ringing a large bell attached to a rope and clapping his hands twice. The cow statues signify that this temple is for wisdom and intellect or in Johnnie's words, to "give me a better head." Fox statues indicate a temple for improving business. The fox I understand, but the cow for intelligence doesn't fit into my experience with cows.

Our path continued to the playground of a primary school. When the school year began in March, only 19 kindergarteners registered for school so in two years, the only surviving elementary school in this neighborhood will close due to declining enrollment. Young families have to choose where they live carefully because neighborhood relationships are very complicated. Families live in the same place for a long time and require everyone to perform duties whether caring for the shrines or cleaning the streets.

Also complicated is the role of geisha in modern Kyoto society. At the age of 15, girls can apply to become geisha, that process is now on the internet. Leaving school and entering strict training in music, dance, tea ceremony, her life is controlled by the teachers. If a woman decides to marry, she can no longer be geisha. In old Kyoto the geisha would only perform dance in private tea houses for their patron family. It wasn't open to the public. Still unclear about where geisha reside on the accomplished artist to exotic dancer spectrum, I asked Johnnie, "If you had a daughter, would you want her to be geisha?" He laughed and several expressions crossed his face. After a complicated pause, he answered, "If she really wanted that life."

Cottage industry thrives in the back streets of Kyoto. Johnnie pointed out homes where people made fans, pottery and prayer beads for the larger businesses that sold the products. At Toyokuni Shrine Johnnie related the story of Hideyoshi, a Japanese hero, born a poor farmer 400 years ago, he united Japan. What a treat to hear English for five hours and to converse with such friendly and interesting travelers. During the walk, people offered advice about our next destinations, what to do in Beijing, Bangkok or Frankfurt. A Japanese woman from Osaka graciously clarified some of my burning questions about Japanese culture:

Question: Why do we feel vulgar munching on an apple while walking down the street?
Answer: Because Japanese people don't eat in public. It's a private activity. That may also explain why the oldest people on the planet live in Japan and the heaviest ones live in the States. A coffee to go at Starbucks here comes in a drink carrier, hidden in a paper bag, to be consumed when you arrive at your destination.

Question: Why do some women wear kimonos and some western clothing?
Answer: A kimono is like a cocktail dress, for special occasions.

Question: Why do so many people wear surgical face masks? Is it the pollution?
Answer: Simply hayfever. It's spring and there's a lot of pollen.

Question: Why is the year listed on our rail passes 19 and not 2007?
Answer: Japanese use both calendar systems. It's year 19 of the Heisei Emperor and when a new emperor comes, it will start again at year 1.

I definitely "got a better head" today.